Jasper National Park | Maligne Lake

Tuesday | 14 August 2001 | Jasper National Park: Okay... so we don't need electricity, (we have an inverter, generator and solar panels) but it is nice. This morning, while I was still dozing, my driver walked the mile or so down to the check-in kiosk at Whistlers Campground. A line forms in the morning, consisting of campers who want to move-up to an electrical or full-hookup site. As these campsites become free, they call you over and you move to a new site. Pretty good system, I suppose, as this campground has nearly 800 sites (I am not kidding) and only about 100 with hook-ups of any sort. We have decided to stick around for a few days, so DT wanted an upgrade. So, off he goes. I wake from my pine-scented slumber and wonder where he has gone... running shoes and car still here... and figure out his plan. At about 10a I am concerned and pour him a cup of coffee (made with the inverter's power of course) and DRIVE it down to him. DT was about 7th from the front of the line at this time and said there had been about 20 people in front of him when he arrived TWO HOURS prior! He asked me to stay (to drive him back) as it would certainly only be a few more minutes. Luckily, there were interesting people in line to chat with - including a woman we must have seen 100 times before as she has been at every track meet we have been to in the past 13 years! How we have never come across her before is a mystery! Finally, at 11 o'clock the last stragglers checked-out and we were given an electrical site and we will be charged up for the next few days of our stay.

The morning is gone! DT went for a run and I followed along on my new folding bicycle (unfolded, duh), looking just dapper in my helmet, and a willow basket hanging from the handlebar - containing cell phone and camera. You need a camera 24/7 in Jasper as wild animals are everywhere - this campground is crawling with elk! We then had a homemade breakfast and loaded up the BC2 for a drive to Maligne Lake. Every time we come to Jasper - we have to make this drive! It is about 35 miles, one way. Just beautiful. The road follows along Medicine Lake and then along the Maligne River to Maligne Lake. Monstrous mountain peaks are at every turn. You can't believe the color of the water, the clarity of the river, the color of the sky, the smell of the air - everything needs to have exclamation points in the Canadian Rockies!!!

Maligne Lake and Mt. Samson


Alberta's official flower, the Wild Rose

Maligne Lake, about 14 miles long, is the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies. It is fed by glaciers - and is completely surrounded by mountains at the southern end - just a magnificent view. The lake has a small lodge and a boat house where you can rent canoes - no motors allowed on the lake. We walked along the shore and snapped a few photos. It was very hot in Jasper today - over 80 degrees - and a few brave souls were taking a swim - and then jumping out immediately shivering and laughing.

After spending an hour or so at the lake, we headed back towards Jasper. Along the road we found a small herd of sheep. We have seen sheep along this road before... I think the rangers let them out for the tourists, as they seem to be very attracted to cars... I assume people feed them??? The group was in the middle of the road, so we had to stop (again, I think this is what biologists call "learned behavior"). Here is a photo of the Wild and the Not So Wild:

By the side of the road and...


... by the side of the car... "Do you want fries with that?"

The lake behind the sheep (above photo) is Medicine Lake, our next stop. From Medicine Lake runs what may be the longest underground river system in the world! The waters in Medicine Lake are slightly acidic and can dissolve limestone. Over the years cracks in the bottom of the lake enlarge, creating deep fissures known as karst. The water leaves Medicine Lake through a karst at the incredible rate of 24,000 liters per second!  In the summer, more water leaves the lake than enters the lake and the surface level drops many feet - you can see the drop at the tree line. In the spring, it fills up again! So, where does it go? Scientists have placed dye in the water and have found it takes 20 hours to reappear again in Maligne Canyon, about 10 miles away. Now THAT is some interesting stuff!

Medicine Lake

After a stop at Medicine Lake, we continued back to town along the Maligne River and stopped for a snack. Our picnic spot was at a little turn-out with a few picnic tables right on the river. Just a lovely setting. We noshed on black olive tapanade on crostini - and DT decided to soak his Achilles tendon in the river - he had to take his feet out of the water every 30 seconds or so as the water was like moving ice. Look at that clear water!

Getting your feet wet in the Rockies

Next, we stopped at Maligne Canyon - mostly because they have such a nice gift shop at the top of the canyon. We have hiked this canyon twice already from top to bottom - but we did walk down the canyon a mile or so today to view how the water has carved a deep, narrow canyon through the limestone. I am sorry to say the gift shop is now catering almost exclusively now to visitors who would like to purchase carved polar bears and it is no longer such a destination shop.
 
We stopped in town to restock our bottled water supply and to buy a newspaper. The Edmonton papers are still full of The World's - 9 total defections to date - and photos of Marion Jones smiling at the airport, along with 15,000 of her closest friends. For some reason, I bet Miss Marion did not have to stand in line for 4 hours before checking in for her flight. The paper said the lines became longest in the afternoon, when they streamed out the doors and volunteers were giving water, juice and soda to passengers. Ticket sales to The World's were $100,000 over expectation - with total sales of over 12 million dollars. (Canadian.) The mayor is already pleading for a Grand Prix meet for Edmonton in 2007. Mark your calendars!
 
For dinner - since we have power, but must ration our water (i.e. dish washing!) we walked along the streets of Jasper until we found a restaurant to our liking. An icy cold gin tonic and a salad were perfect for this hot evening. We sat on the patio of a second-story restaurant, with views of ice-capped Mt. Edith Cavell as our view! At about 10 pm, it became dark enough to watch the lights of the gondola climb The Whistlers Mountain. We came back to the campground late, the smell of campfires in the breeze.
 
It was a wonderful day! Rummy score after three weeks: DT 435, TGT 269.

Campground: Whistlers