Petrified Forest | Hubbell Trading Post | Canyon de Chelly

Tuesday - 4 June 2002: Gallup, New Mexico: For "taking it easy", we sure covered a lot of ground today! I must say it is quite enjoyable to wake up and have no set plan, schedule or reservations. DT says we drove 300 miles and probably stopped 30 times. What a wonderful day. Pour yourself a cup of coffee and settle in for a long report.

We left the lovely freeway-efficient KOA in Holbrook at 8:30 am. We missed the pancake breakfast - DT went for a run and I paid $1 to use their modem line - allowed only if I had a 1-800 number to dial. Howard, get your atlas and see if you can follow this zigzag snaking course! We headed south-east on 180 out of Holbrook and then entered the south entrance of Petrified Forest National Park. It is a most strange-shaped park, with a 28 mile road through the center. Founded in 1906, additional parcels have been added over the years. In the southern part of the park, there are thousands of petrified trees scattering the ground.

Petrified log


Petrified wood

"This high, dry tableland was once a vast floodplain crossed by many streams. Tall, stately pine-like trees grew along the headwaters. Small dinosaurs and crocodile-like reptiles lived among a variety of ferns, cycads and other plants and animals that are known only as fossils today. The trees fell and were washed by swollen streams into the floodplain. Silt, mud, and volcanic ash then covered the logs. This blanket of deposits cut off oxygen and slowed the logs' decay. Gradually, silica-bearing ground waters seeped through the logs and, bit by bit, replaced the original wood tissues with silica deposits. As the process continued, the silica crystallized into quartz, and the logs were preserved as petrified wood. That was about 225 million years ago. Later, the area was lifted far above sea level; wind and water have worn away the layers of hardened sediments, exposing the fossilized remains. There is evidence in the park of human occupation for more than 10,000 years." That is your geology lesson for the day.

We stopped at more than a dozen sites in the park. One exceptionally interesting vista was Newspaper Rock. Huge boulders, covered with petroglyhs, have fallen off a cliff and are visible from a lookout.

Petroglyhs at Newspaper Rock

In the northern part of the park, there are no petrified trees - just fabulous hill formations - colored by iron, manganese and other minerals.

Goldie rests in the park


The Tepees

At the most northern portion of Petrified Forest National Park is the Painted Desert Inn National Historic Landmark - a pueblo structure with exhibits on cultural history - which was once a very nice hotel for visitors to the area. The views from the Inn are to the Painted Desert - where mineral deposits "paint" the nearby hills.

The Painted Desert

The park is at a near-crisis. People are stealing the park, one nugget at a time. There are serious fines - money and jail time - for removing so much as a pebble from the park. It is said to be very bad luck to remove a piece of the ancient wood. There are two displays in the park that were very interesting: people had written letters to the park with their returned "stolen" rocks. They claimed their luck had turned terrible after their crime! The letters date back from as far as the 1940's, and detail drunken husbands, poor health, terrible marriages and unemployment! I didn't remove so much as a grain of sand! Petrified wood is for sale in the gift shops - it is gathered on privately-owned land outside the park. DT bought a very nice little bracelet for me - it is interesting wearing a 225-million-year-old bracelet!

After following the course through the park, we ended up back on Interstate 40. Hmmm... where to go from here? Since we had no where to go and nothing to do, we decided to have a look at the Hubbell Trading Post. So at Chambers, AZ (milepost 333) we took a left and headed north on 191.

The roads in the Navajo Nation are in terrible condition and most of the homes are double-wides, suffering from neglect. It is embarrassing people live like this in America. Oh, have you heard me say that before? It's not like I am out doing something to change it, besides pay taxes. The schools and hospitals, however, are absolutely immaculate. There are thousands and thousands and thousands of beer bottles - for some strange reason, not cans - on the sides of the roads. We enjoyed all the cattle and horses along the roads - no fences here. The Nation is huge, covering the corner of several states. They have their own government and are on daylight savings time - Arizona is not. Inside the Nation is a Hopi Indian Reservation.... kinda like a nation inside a nation inside a nation.

At Ganado, we took a left to the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. This trading post, farm, home and ranch was started in 1876 by John Lorenzo Hubbell. It has been in constant operation since.  Hubbell was born in 1853 at Pajarito, in what was then New Mexico Territory - the son of a Connecticut Yankee who had gone to New Mexico as a soldier and married into a family of Spanish descent. In 1879, Hubbell married Lina Rubi and they had four children. Navajo people gathered at the trading post and Hubbell served not only as a merchant, but as their liaison to the world beyond the reservation. In 1886, a smallpox epidemic swept the reservation, Hubbell opened his home as a hospital and worked night and day caring for the sick. Besides the trading post, which is in three separate rooms, the property includes Hubbell's home, barn, chicken coop, stable, bunkhouse, corrals, a bread oven and a guest hogan. (A hogan is a small 6-sided-cicular Navajo home.)

We first looked into the visitor center. They had a nice selection of books and postcards and also had two Navajo women demonstrating weaving. The women did not speak English - only Navajo. They were a bit elderly, neatly attired and were selling their wares. There was a sign stating to please not take their photos, unless you ask first and pay a small fee. I noticed they did not work on chairs or stools - they weaved seated on the floor on a blanket.

The trading post was very interesting and I am so sorry I did not take photos - but there was great excitement at the trading post - it was raining. And I don't mean raining - I mean, it was pouring. Since DT and I were the only people in the visitor center and since we were from Oregon, we were given the credit for the rain. It had not rained for months and months in The Nation. It rained hard for about 20 minutes, and sadly, I don't think it will make much of a dent in the drought. The mad-dash to the trading post left us drenched! The rain smelled so wonderful on the red earth.

The first room in the post was a grocery. No fresh food, but bulk items, bread, canned goods, etc. They were also selling moccasins for a very reasonable price. In the second room silver jewelry and woven baskets were for sale. I noticed a beautiful basket for $995, so I tiptoed into the blanket/rug room and noticed an exceptional rug entitled "The Tree of Life". It was about 8x6 feet and was ONLY $7000. Seeing how the rugs are produced, I am sure that was a reasonable price, but I passed on the beautiful piece of art. Interesting side-note: each and every rug had a plastic tag stapled into the edge - theft-security tags are being used in The Nation.

We continued north on 191 (Howard? You still with me?) to Chinle, to Canyon de Chelly National Monument. (Pronounced da-SHAY.) The canyon is spectacular - very similar to the Grand Canyon without all the strata and on a smaller scale. Its two main gorges - Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del Muerto - have sandstone walls, some as high as 1,100 feet. The canyon begins at Chinle, where the walls are only 30 feet high. The floor of the canyon is very wide and the Navajo farm and ranch at the base of the cliffs. There is a dirt road leading into the canyon. Only tours with Navajo guides are allowed into Canyon de Chelly. There seemed to be a stream bed, but it was dry and it looked to be dry for quite some time. The Indians grow vegetables, peaches and graze sheep below ancient cliff dwellings once inhabited by the Hopi, Anasazi and Navajo. There are drives along the north and sound rim of the canyons.

Spider Rock


White House ruins

We stopped at most of the view points along the canyon rim. Spider Rock is where two smaller canyons join de Chelly. Navajo children are taught that naughty children's names are given to the Spider Woman who lives on the taller tower! Better be good! White House ruins is named for the white wall on the upper part of the dwelling. White House was constructed around 1060 AD and was inhabited by the Anasazi people.

here are many cliff dwellings along the canyon, some are larger than others. White House at one time probably was a small village of 400 people. The park was very beautiful - the colors were just brilliant - and the over-looks were very nice. Canyon de Chelly is a nice way to spend the afternoon. Navajo crafters sell their wares from the backs of their pick-ups in some of the vista parking lots. Horses, sheep, goats and cows stroll around at their leisure. It was hot and sunny - but we could see rain to the east. And, it was getting late. 5:00 pm Arizona time and Oregon time - 6:00 pm Nation and New Mexico time... so we headed out, following the north canyon rim drive to Tsaile (the Navajo name of the canyon) and then south on Nation 6 or sometimes Nation 6 was called Nation 12... whatever... to Window Rock, Arizona - where we gratefully left the horrible Nation roads for the smooth New Mexico highways.

Goldie had rocked and rolled all day from the bumpy roads. It was like riding a roller coaster with a flat tire. It made your head hurt. If we weren't able to get out and look at such amazingly unbelievable sights all day, we would have just driven her over a cliff. Actually, a kitchen drawer came flying-out and landed on the floor - that is how hard we were shaking today! DT is terrified all the rattling will loosen yet another wire or computer chip and we will be in the repair shop again tomorrow.

The cocktail hour found us on 264, five steps out of The Nation and noticed EVERY CAR turning left into a tavern. We turned south on highway 666 to Gallup, New Mexico, where we pulled-in to the first campground... er, excuse me, Kampground, we found and called it a night. I had planned to make tacos, but I was too tired. We noticed a fun-looking restaurant next-door, so decided to give it a whirl as soon as we were set-up. It was well after 8 pm Arizona time.... or 9 pm New Mexico time, or... er... anyway, it was LATE and we were hungry.

We walked next door from the Gallup KOA - we are on Historic Route 66 - to The Ranch Kitchen. (NOTE: The Ranch Kitchen is now under new ownership.) Their BBQ maestro, Dave, was outside grilling up steaks, ribs and chicken. Everything smelled so good! The 50 year old restaurant is built to look like an old ranch - pine ceiling, wagon-wheel "chandeliers" and tile floors. The tables and chairs are made from pine logs. Drinking glasses are mason jars. Very quaint and yet, very trendy at the same time. We were seated and were asked from which state we were visiting... guess we looked like tourists? In moments, a small State of Oregon flag was placed on our table! I looked around the restaurant and noticed about half of the tables had flags and the remainders must have been locals... or possibly from States already represented? Anyway, it was a fun place. The menu was vast. We wanted to try the Mexican fare and we wanted to try the BBQ fare, so we ordered both and "switched at half-time". I ordered the BBQ chicken. It came with a baked potato, vegetable, LOAF OF BREAD, and a spin through the soup and salad bar. It was enough food for four people and was only $9.99. (This restaurant will possibly have to file for bankruptcy soon.) DT had the cheese enchilada dinner. He did not get a salad bar and his enchiladas came with rice and beans. (I must say, I have no idea how Jane and Michael Stern missed the Ranch Kitchen on their latest tour.) The place is a step back in time - the food is delicious - and the portions are Paul Bunyan-size. I never did try my baked potato. (I can report it came wrapped in foil, was ample sized and was served with butter and sour cream.) The BBQ chicken turned out to be a half of a chicken, cooked in their smoker, smothered with their own special BBQ sauce. It was moist and fell off the bone. The skin was charred a bit and crunchy. But, and don't laugh, the best part of my meal was the corn. Yep. Corn. It was fresh corn, cut from the cob and probably boiled for a minute. It was served with green chilies and sour cream. I could have eaten a gallon of it. It was so sweet, cooked to perfection, with a bit of a bite. We were the tackiest of diners - trading plates half-way through our meals... not that anyone would have cared or noticed at The Ranch Kitchen. DT's enchiladas were also delicious. The sauce made your eyes water and lips turn numb. The fresh tortillas served with his meal were soft and warm. (I love tortillas and have several places to try while we are in New Mexico.) We had ordered a beer when we arrived and after washing-down all that fiery red sauce, asked for a second round. The waitress sat my BudLight down in front of me. She put DT's Dos XX in front of him and said "That's the last one." We thought she was cutting him off after two beers. "What?" he said. "That's the last Dos XX beer we have." Can you imagine two bigger losers?

After dinner I talked for a bit outside with the BBQ chef, Dave. He told me about their smoker and how they cook all of the chicken in the smoker and pre-cook the ribs there too. The steaks are grilled over the open flame, to order. The ribs from the smoker are put into a pot of simmering beef reduction for a moment before they are finished-off on the BBQ and topped with their famous fire-hot BBQ sauce. Dave knew his BBQ, I can tell you that. If any of you are ever in.... damn, where are we???... Gallup, New Mexico... dine at The Ranch Kitchen on Historic Route 66.

Burp.

RV Park: Gallup KOA