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Kentucky Capitol Building | Buffalo Trace Distillery

Monday - 7 October 2002: Lexington, Kentucky - Again, a few notes from last night. We stayed at the nicest campground! Elkhorn Creek Campground sits on an U-shaped bend in the creek. It looks like a huge picnic ground - lots of lawn and big, old trees. The sites are huge and well-spaced and the water pressure is fantastic. Our campsite was $15... but I do have to comment on the "note" we were handed as we checked-in with a dog. There is a specified dog-walk area (this is true in nearly every campground) and "if your dog can't make it all the way to the dog-walk area, you must clean-up after him! We have paid informants in the park and if you are caught not scooping - you will BE ASKED TO LEAVE!" I always clean up after my pooch, but was looking over my shoulder for the Poop Nazis when I was walking Snickers. (By the way - he NEVER made it all the way to the dog poop place.)

Elkhorn Creek campground also encourages campers to visit historic downtown Frankfort and lets you check-out very late! We left the poop-machine (Kathy's moniker for Snickers) sleeping and went into town for nearly four hours! (He is really getting used to being left now.) First, as is our custom when visiting a State Capital, we went to the Capitol Building. The Kentucky State Capitol Building is the largest we have visited to date. The entire state of Kentucky is like one giant Thank You card to France - Kentucky is most thankful for France's help during the Revolutionary War. The Beaux Arts-style Capitol building is a shrine to French Architecture. The rotunda and dome are modeled on the Hotel Des Invalides, the grand staircase is a copy of the Paris Opera and the State Reception Room is a copy of Marie Antoinette's drawing room at Versailles. This is the first Capitol Building where we have been asked to sign-in and show photo ID. There was a lot of security present - State Troopers carrying weapons. (We have learned this usually means the Governor is in his office.)

Kentucky Capitol Building
Kentucky Capitol Building

State Reception Room in the Kentucky Capitol Building
The State Reception Room

Kentucky Capitol Building
Interior of Kentucky Capitol Building

Pretty fancy, eh? (Well, it is still not as nice at the Capitol Building in Minnesota - of all places!)

After our tour and a swing through the gift shop, where we purchased 10 postcards, had them placed in a bag, sealed, and initialed by the clerk (?), we walked back to the Honda and drove to the famous Rebecca Ruth Candy Shop. Rebecca Ruth make Bourbon Balls. We didn't take breakfast today, only coffee, so the first thing we had today was a Rebecca Ruth Bourbon Ball! Whew! I would not recommend a bourbon ball (free sample or not!) on an empty stomach! They were really, really delicious. Hic.

Next, we had a tour through Historic Frankfort. Daniel & Rebecca Boone are buried in Frankfort, Kentucky State University is here and nearly all of downtown is a National Historical Landmark.

Our next stop was to the Buffalo Trace Distillery. This was our first visit to a distillery and it was simply fascinating. I think our guide was exceptional, which made for a good tour. The distillery is the oldest (continuously working in the same location) in the U.S., some of the huge, brick buildings are over 200 years old. They still use river water (purified!) to make the bourbon in stills. (The used mash is sold to Purina for dog food!) Buffalo Trace make their own white oak barrels and use them only once. The barrels are then sold (most of them anyway) to Scotland for whiskey aging, at between $30 and $40 each. They distill ten different brands at Buffalo Trace. I had never heard of any of their brands, but everyone else on the tour knew them. Their premier brand, Buffalo Trace, is only distributed in Kentucky and Indiana. We learned how the taxing on the bourbon literally changed the entire process and that bourbon is the most regulated food product in America. I thought the bars on the windows of the aging warehouses were for security and I was right - but wrong. The bars were put there by the "revenuers" over 100 years ago to stop the company from sneaking a barrel of bourbon out before paying taxes on the liquor. Today, a barrel of bourbon has a tax bill of between five and six hundred dollars! After the tour, which included the entire process - right down to the hand-filling and labeling - we were taken into the tasting room and given a shot of bourbon... again, nothing to eat yet and it was after noon. That shot of whiskey went right to our heads and we were seen in the gift shop moments later loading up on bourbon and assorted gifts!  Buffalo Trace bourbon was very smooth, did not burn, and was served quite cold.

Buffalo Trace Distillery
Bourbon aging in barrels at Buffalo Trace Distillery

We arrived back to Goldie to rescue our poor dog, hitched the BC2 and dragged it 20 miles to Lexington, Kentucky where we are camped at a lovely State Park, Kentucky Horse Park. We will visit the Horse Park tomorrow. This afternoon we-three went into Lexington - Home of the Kentucky Wildcats and saw Rupp Arena and the family home of Mary Todd Lincoln. I did not take photos because the house is 2 feet from a very ugly street and electric wires are all over the front of the house and it was just awful! (Sorry - I was so disappointed. MTL is one of my favorite characters in American History.) Next, we headed out to Paris! (I told you this state was nuts over France!)  We chose to drive the Paris Pike, a 14-mile road between Lexington and Paris, because of the beautiful horse "farms" on the road. Mile after mile of green pastures and gorgeous horses, long-hair (!) and Limosin cattle grazing on the famed Kentucky Blue Grass. The homes were simply gorgeous - huge brick mansions. I can't imagine how many hours it takes to simply mow the lawn in front of the homes!

Kentucky Horses
Horses

Duncan TavernParis has a Historic Shrine. Not a Historic Monument, a SHRINE. Duncan Tavern was a favorite watering hole of early frontiersmen, including Daniel Boone. It is a beautiful building - as are many buildings in town - made from mortared field stone. Folklore tells us that bourbon was "born" in Paris, Kentucky. Originally called Hopewell, the county seat was renamed Paris in 1790, since the county was named for France's royal family - Bourbon.

Detail of field stone on the Duncan Tavern

Duncan Tavern
Duncan Tavern Historic Shrine

You can see we were having a Big Day and really doing a lot. It was getting close to 6 p.m. and we needed a few groceries - no nearby restaurants and we wanted to listen to our Fearless Leader give his Address to the Nation. We could not find a supermarket! Certainly, we would drive by a grocery on our return from Paris? No, nothing. Finally, we crossed I-75 into Georgetown and saw a Winn Dixie. It was a horrible store. They had three green peppers, none of which were edible. The Winn Dixie had 137 varieties of pork products and three varieties of apples. For some reason, they had a huge display of microwave popcorn, in boxes, in the refrigerated vegetable section, near a huge display of refrigerated peanuts in the shell. We asked the check-out girl, about 19 years old, if they sold beer and she said "No, Georgetown is in a dry county." While scanning our items, she held up a lime and asked DT, "WHOT is this?" and he replied that they were 3 for $1. "No", she said, "I mean, WHOT is this?" "It is a lime." "Oh, I knew it was either a lemon or a lime."

All over Kentucky we see signs reading, "KENTUCKY: Education Pays."  WHOTever!

RV Park: Kentucky Horse Park in Lexington, Kentucky


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