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Fort Mandan

Wednesday - 23 June 2004 - Bismarck, North Dakota: It was so windy yesterday, we couldn't even leave our motorhome. It was time to head south.

Anyway... after watching the election results last night on Winnipeg television - what a hoot, with the Victory going to Mr. Katz (pronounced for some reason, Cates) we were able to rise early and left the campground at 7 o'clock (in the morning, people!) as we had a long drive ahead of us today - 440 miles!  Last night, besides the hotly-contested Mayoral Race, there was a frost-warning in Winnipeg and when we left town this morning, the skies were black and our thermometer read 45-degrees! Time to leave The Peg! Here is a broad generalization about Winnipeg: Quite lovely and surprisingly cosmopolitan, considering it is in the middle of nowhere and 80% of the time it is too cold to go outside.

We drove west on the Trans-Canadian Highway. By 9 o'clock the weather had taken a nasty turn. It became colder and colder, the skies turned blacker and it rained and rained and rained. At Brandon, 140 west of Winnipeg, the sun came out and the temperature climbed to a balmy 50-degrees. Realizing we would soon leave Canada, Brandon was the perfect opportunity to spend our last Loonies at Tim Horton's. Always clean and friendly, Tim Horton's is the Dunkin Donuts of Canada. DT bought an apple fritter and I had old-fashioned donut holes. Both treats were warm, so were quickly devoured. As Tim says "Un regal san egal"! (Can't beat the treat!)

At Virden, we left the Trans-Canadian Highway and took Highway 83 south to the U.S. border. 83 is not a well-traveled road and maybe the U.S. immigration guys were bored. One officer looked at our passports while the other wrote-down our vehicle license numbers. Both went inside the building, while we "remained with our vehicle". About 10 minutes later, one officer returned and asked us if anyone else was with us. We said no, and without asking our permission, he entered Our Intrigue! DT and I were both outside and I gave DT "the look" so he went in. We were curious at what he was looking for! The official looked under the bed and then asked us to unlock the bays outside. He opened every compartment outside the RV, but barely glanced inside. Then he asked me to unlock the Honda! The entire process took just a few minutes and we have no idea what he was looking for, but it wasn't Cuban cigars. (No, we DID NOT have contraband cigars!) One look through our passports - with stamps from Greece, Spain, UK, Indonesian, China, Vietnam and Mexico - could possibly make a customs official at the North Dakota border curious. He opened the passports again, handed each of us our passport and walked back into the immigration office. No explanation. No "you can go now", no "thank you", no "welcome to the US". Nothing. We started the RV and entered The Land of our Birth.

We were greeted immediately by a border-ignorant deer and her days-old fawn. Just adorable! We are seriously in the Plains now. Grassland everywhere, very pretty as the long grass blows in the wind. One hour north of Bismarck, we visited the North Dakota Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center and Fort Mandan - the Fort Clatsop of the East - where the Corp of Discovery spent the winter of 1804-05 on their way west. The fort is, of course, a replica. The site of the original fort is now gone due to natural course-changes of the Mighty Missouri River.

Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center
Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center

Fort Mandan, named for the local Indian tribe, was hastily built as winter was setting-in. To make it quicker to build, it only had three walls and is, in fact, triangular. The fort was built with local cottonwood and had 10 rooms and eight stone fireplaces! The Corp also used the fort on their return trip - but found it mostly burned. It was August, so they slept here anyway and in total stayed in Fort Mandan 146 days - longer than any other place on their adventure. It was at Fort Mandan where Charbonneau was hired as a guide and interpreter. He moved into the fort with his wife, Sacagawea - and the rest is history. The Explorers kept such good records, it was easy for the historians to completely re-create the fort, down to the last detail. It was even noted who occupied each room, the location of the store-rooms and the black-smith shop.

Fort Mandan, on the shore of the Missouri River in North Dakota
Fort Mandan, on the shore of the Missouri River in North Dakota

Fort Mandan, on the shore of the Missouri River in North Dakota
A view inside the fort

Lewis & Clark's quarters at Fort Mandan
Lewis & Clark's quarters

RV Park: Bismarck KOA


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